It took me some time to write about our adventure in Bohol. Got all tangled up in the busy world of work and I lost my notebook. When I travel I always have a small notebook for doodles, thoughts and what-nots. And this is the first time I lost one for a long time. Darn!

So what can I say with Bohol?

As the whole world knows, Bohol suffered the 7.2 magnitude earthquake. I and Liezl, my perennial travel buddy and together with the new recruit Boni went there during the Holy Week. Liezl's elder sister, Ate Leah worked in Tagbiliran City (Bohol's capital) for Save the Children. After the earthquake disaster, there were a lot of international organizations that came in for reconstruction work.

There were volunteer works for rebuilding the houses and several strategic public infrastructure. What is most heartbreaking? The lives and livelihoods lost. And the community's soul in century-old churches. Churches split in half and turned into rubble. The Baclayon Church, known to many for the place where the Baclayon Childrens Choir made its debut and home of several historical activities split in half. Based on the final report, 7 churches totally destroyed and 21 were damaged. Ten churches of the island's churches have been declared as national cultural heritage, now reduced into rubble: 
1. San Pedro Church, Loboc (built in 17th C. by the Jesuits; paintings added in 20th c; Bohol's 2nd oldest Church.)

Baclayon Church

2. Immaculada Concepcion de la Virgen Maria, Baclayon (oldest church in the island, built in coral stnes and cemented by egg whites. It houses a museum with large collection of historic artifacts)
3. Nuestra Señora de la Luz, Loon, Bohol (locally known as BIrhen ng Kasilak Church; the biggest in the island, built by the Augustinian- Recollects in Corinthian style) 
4. Loay, Bohol (established in the 19th century, built from coral stones)
5. Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, Dauis, Bohol (built by the Jesuits in various style; believed to have a well inside used by the residents during the war; water is viewed as miraculous). 
6. Parroquia de la Santa Cruz, Maribojoc, Bohol (another church built by the Jesuits in 19th century)

Right after the quake, there was an abuzz of disbelief that these churches were damaged, with nothing left to restore as all of it was pulverized As the National Historical Commission chief Maria Serena Diokno said churches form "part of the soul of the community."  There were a lot also who lamented that churches are structures, what is important are the lives of the people.  

There is an ongoing Help Rebuild Bohol Churches by the Diocese of Tagbilaran and the National Historical Institute (NHI). You can donate or be a volunteer, just click the link. 



When we were there, we're advised not to drink the water from local sources. Boil it first before drinking as water has been found out of e-coli. Water table moved. The shoreline of the beach in the municipality of Clarin for instance moved back with a width comparable to a football field. Reports also said that there was yellowish water that sprouted after immediately after the quake in October 15, 2013.

The waves used to be reach the rocks here

We stayed in Bohol for 5 days- quite a long time to relax, discern and also rekindle our faith. The procession during Good Friday was the longest and biggest I have ever seen in my entire life! People from all walks, including chidlren holding the rosary and singing the hymns. And after the procession, as we went back to the Church, there was a beeline to see the body of the dead Christ. What was nerve wracking was when the line broke out in haste to go to the carriage and get the flowers surrounding the body of Christ during the procession. There was crying, shouting, pushing and shoving. It was a frenzy..a show of devotion I never saw in real life. I only saw this kind in TV during the Black Nazarene. Was it desperation? Fanaticism? 

Procession from Dauis Church

Procession at Tagbilaran Cathedral

Bohol is an island with lots of things to offer- not just the white sand beaches in Panglao, the Chocolate Hills, or the tarsiers. More so, it houses a lot historical memories, of deep-seated religion as well as revolution. I am interested with how revolutions started and how it ended. An uprising,led by Francisco Sendrijas alias Dagohoy was considered as the longest revolt, taking around 85 years (1744-1829) for the Spaniards to quell. Revolt was due to the forced labor (polo y sevicios). But it was triggered when the Jesuit priest Fr. Gaspar Morales, the Jesuit curate of Inabanga refused to give burial to Dagohoys brother (a constable who was ordered to capture one parishioner who left the church, and was killed in the process). Even after Dagohoy's death, his followers continued the fight. 

Tamblot on one hand, is one of the babaylans  who refused to follow Catholicism.Fr. Murillo Velarde recounted their attempts to quell the revolt in Historia de Filipinas and translated by Blair and Robertson, Vol. 38 (pp. 87-91). 

Sadly, the name Dagohoy is only relegated to a municipality and Tamblot, a small narrow street. It was never a part of the official, mainstream tours. And it is indeed a challenge for historians and tourism office to go beyond the usual tour sites. For rebuilding is not only structures as well as our memories of the past. 

What lingers with Bohol? The people's resilience and beautiful sunset. I was moved by the lola who dressed up the Crucifix. They continue the masses either in gyms or makeshift churches, rising to the so called "alternative Churches."  On the hindsight, aren't churches before are not big structures but anywhere we worship and commune together to celebrate the Word? 
As one lola said, "Ang among pagtuo dili gyud maguba (Our faith will never be destroyed)." 

For during typhoon or any disaster, our faith will help us survive.

Colorful banca at Loboc River

To have an undying burning passion of hundred Suns. :)

Thank you Ate Leah Bugtay for being a gracious host. Good health for you always to continue your service.

Dauis Church, Bohol (April 19, 2014)

Does sunset sometimes
look like the sun’s coming up?
Do you know what faithful love is like?
You’re crying. You say you’ve burned yourself.

But can you think of anyone who’s not
hazy with smoke?

- Rumi

7km stretch of white sand shoreline

Dahican has a soft spot in my heart.

Whenever the city life begins to be chaotic, Dahican Beach, located in Mati, Davao Oriental is another on my list for refuge (second to Samal Island's Vanishing Island and Isla Reta).

Amihan Boys train everyday after picking up trash along the shorelines.

It used to be like our secret hideaway but now it's known for skimboarders and surfer wannabes. Based on the local history, Dahican is where the Moro seafarers during the pre-Spanish era anchor their boats because of its fine harbor. The local settlers started to call it Dahican, coming from the word dahic, meaning "to set on shore a boat'. According to Kuya George "Jun" Plaza, dahic also means the 'movement of the pawikans coming from the sea to the beach to nest'. The pawikans, usually Hawksbill and Olive Ridleys trudge ashore to nest during the months of May and June.

It is now being packaged as the skimboarding capital of the south, with sparkling turquoise water to boot and waves good place for amateur watersports training. It is along the white sand shoreline stretching to seven kilometers of Mayo Bay, facing the Pacific Ocean.

The pawikans (marine turtles) are considered by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN) as endangered. Meaning, these species are in danger of becoming extinct due to "the unabated causal factors such as hunting and intrusion to its habitat."

It is not just the home of the marine turtles. Dugongs (sea cows) and dolphins are also  inhabitants here. In one of our stay here last November, Kuya Jun told us of dolphin sightings. But it was gloomy that day, so there was no close encounter. But the knowledge that these sea creatures abound the area and the turtles continue to lay its eggs on its shore, we can hope of seeing them coming back again.  And Amihan sa Dahican boys and girls are continuously cleaning the shorelines  and protecting these creatures, even without renumeration or clear support from the LGU.

Fun fact: Did you know that the pawikan hatchling when it survived the ocean and becomes mature will return to the shore where it was born to lay its own eggs? That's pag-ibig sa tinubuang lupa (love for your birthplace) magnified!

Go now Gong Pawikan, go go now and hope you'll survive the cruel seas (most esp. humans!)

One on my bucketlist is to be able to swim with the pawikans but seeing them (and almost witnessing one laying its eggs) in one day is enough for now. Before the start of the Skimboarding competition for the Amihan 10th Anniversary last April 5, one hawksbill pawikan was released. It got into the fisherman's hook. The fisherman brought it to the Amihan boys as they're recognized by the Mati City Local Government Unit (LGU) and the Department of Environment and Natural Resources- Protected Areas and Wildlife Bureau (DENR- PAWB) as caretakers of these endangered species. They put a tag on the pawikan (to determine where it was found and enable them to monitor it)  and then released it to the enjoyment of the people and the kids. The kids keep on cheering for the pawikan as it edge its way to the seawater.

To make your summer get-away here fully memorable, why don't you try the skimboard lessons for P200 per hour or surfing lesson for P400 per hour. I have to warn you though, the Amihan boys and girls make it look so easy but prepare for muscle cramps after.

I have to ask for Bayugyug's (their local skimboarding champion) own board as a goodluck charm for this training.

Telai (another CSer) and I had a hard time balancing on the board!

We Couchsurfers  bring our guests here to experience the simplicity and nature at its rawness. Plus you get to see the abs of the Amihan Boys every morning! *insert naughty smile here*

Couchsurfing Davao during the Sambuokan Festival.

'Cause girls know how to have fun. :p

I prefer to go here when there's no festival. But if you're the beach party goer, visit the place during Amihan Anniversary every April, Pujada Bay Festival on June, Sambuokan Fest every October since there's food and free bands. And there's the infamous Bikini Abre (on Amihan's Anniversary) to get you giggling until the wee hours of the morning. You have to see it for yourself to know what I'm talking about. :)


How to get here: 

Take the van near Gaisano Mall. Fare is P220. It's a three to four hours drive from Davao to Mati City. If you're with a big group ( five or more) you can negotiate with the van driver to take you to Dahican for an additional P30 each fare. If you're on a budget, take a pedicab for P20, pakyaw for P50. Or you can take the pedicab also for P15-20 each.


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Ray June "Kid" Blancada

Dearest Kid,

When was the last time I saw you? I can't pinpoint the date. It has been so long. All I know is you went to Philippine Military Academy (PMA) after trying to work in the academe. I can only remember you with the   games we played after school. You were one of those poging timid boys in the senior class. You're very responsible kuya (older brother) to Lyndel. You always fetched her when it's already late and we're still playing at the plaza. You joined in our silly games despite our two year gap and you nearing adolescence at that time. If you don't play games with us, you sat on the bench. Or you would go to our house and talk to Lola Luz. You were very polite to Lola Luz. You always do 'mano po' and joke with her. She likes you very much and talks a lot about how lucky Auntie Nena  to have you. You even fetched water for us or help us pull down the heavy handle of the hand water pump. You laughed at my shortness; I laughed at your thinness. And I remembered you blushing when we teased you with a classmate you courted during high school.

We were caught up in the changes of growing up and chasing our dreams. Communication was nil.. We moved on with or lives and I heard you got married after graduating.  But I got a shock of my life when I heard the news. My sister texted me about the ambush.

I immediately searched the net for news. Nothing. It was aired on ANC's news flash report, my sister said. I was in denial. We all are when death (or disaster) struck close to us. We learn that our knowledge of life is limited to death.

Kid, all I have of you are those memories. I wonder what will be your reaction when we have seen each other at this juncture of our present selves. I wonder how would you react when you knew I am an activist. I would like to see how you would react to my arguments about linear thinking in the ranks and human rights violations. I know we would argue but laugh after of our foolishness and hardheadedness for the things we strongly believe in. You after all have taken the steps after your father- Uncle Minyong, a retired solider. And you were a teacher first before becoming a soldier. 

And I wonder how would you react if I tell you that I attended the Comprehensive Agreement on the Respect for Human Rights and Humanitarian Law (CARHRIHL)  Multistakeholders Forum held in Ateneo de Davao yesterday. I was still processing my emotions about this 16-year old document and how both parties agreed to "humanize war." Truth be told, I am baffled by how these two paradoxical words can be used.

CARHRIHL aimed to uphold, protect and promote human rights and principles of international humanitarian laws. It does not only hold accountable government state actors for human rights violations but also non-state actors particularly the CPP/NPA/NDF. It aimed to protect the civilians caught in the armed conflict. It aimed to bring these two parties in the negotiating table. However, the negotiations have long been stalled.

I have been doing conflict monitoring Kid. I have read a lot of senseless killings as well as people dying to protect the limited resource they have and for the cause they believe in. Constant exposure to violence can make one numb.Probably, I've been numbed reading these reports.  And I didn't know how to react when I finally read the news, the truth of you, so young, full of dreams for the family you are just building- all are lost in the road of  Quezon Province. And you were on a medical mission together with your 3 other companions. You are not just unknown dead soldier in an encounter. You were caught in the tumultuous period of retaliation after the publicized arrest of  the Tiamzon couple, one of the top ranking leaders of the Communist Party.

We talk of  CARHRIHL and its legitimacy to pursue peace in the communities. And we seek deep commitment from both parties to adhere on what they have signed. But the real work to any peace process or agreements is after the ink dries up. We are talking about human lives. Yes, it is about your life Kid. Or any soldier. Or every civilian caught in the crossfire.

As one of the speakers in the forum commented, we see a lot of violence everyday. Sadly, we only react when the casualties are very dear and personal. And we ask, why why?


War can never be humane. Deaths in every attack or retaliation should not be a scorecard.

Amidst the storm of dissolution and madness of everyday forms of violence, our strength will be tested and sometimes our light for hope flicker..but we hold unto ourselves with big wide eyes into the night, that the morning awaits us. 

Kid, go on. You will remain in our heart. This is a sad, long goodbye.

Let me share to you Paul Baumer's, a character in All Quiet on the Western Front lines realizing how war destroys both soldiers (him and his supposedly enemy) :  

“Comrade, I did not want to kill you. If you jumped in here again, I would not do it, if you would be sensible too. But you were only an idea to me before, an abstraction that lived in my mind and called forth its appropriate response. It was that abstraction I stabbed. But now, for the first time, I see you are a man like me. I thought of your hand-grenades, of your bayonet, of your rifle; now I see your wife and your face and our fellowship. Forgive me, comrade. We always see it too late. Why do they never tell us that you are poor devils like us, that your mothers are just as anxious as ours, and that we have the same fear of death, and the same dying and the same agony – Forgive me, comrade; how could you be my enemy? If we threw away these rifles and this uniform you could be my brother..”

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They’d never been lovers, of course, not in the physical sense. But they’d been lovers as most of us manage, loving through expressions and gestures and the palm set softly upon the bruise at the necessary moment. Lovers by inclination rather than lust. Lovers, that is, by love - Gregory Maguire

From Eric Carle's book entitled Friends

I've been asked several times if you know, we are going out. Of course we are! I mean, we've like malling, hiking, biking, traveling together and talking till wee hours in the morning.  I hear the dramatic undertones when I try to explain what we have. They wanted to know if we are an item. As if we are two pieces of a display. That always make me laugh. because you and I have been comfortable with each other that I could not think of you in a romantic way.

You are one of the few male species I've let into my circle. You are my sanity amidst the heavy drama. I can be honest with you. You know I believe that transparency is a virtue. I am not afraid for you to see me vulnerable, too messy and quite transparent.

I am writing this to remind us how friendship is true partnership. That a man and a woman can be friends. With the inconstant relationships I/you have, this is with no ending, just happy beginning and unbreakable middle. Friendships even outlast marriages (as we once remarked). Because really, this is kismet. :)


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